Virginia - The Old Dominion
Our grandson, Owen, was scheduled to graduate from College of William and Mary in May of 2021 and coincidentally, that was the next state alphabetically to visit. Our daughter, Marnie traveled with us for a few days before the graduation, which was a special treat, especially considering the ongoing pandemic. We went first to Charlottesville where we visited Monticello, considered to be one of the best preserved, best documented and best studied plantations in North America. It was Jefferson’s home, when he was not serving in public affairs, from 1770 until his death in 1826. Our self-guided tour took us first to the family cemetery and gravesite of Jefferson. He died on July 4th, exactly 50 years after the adoption of the Declaration of Independence. The plantation was then sold at auction to pay his debts. We learned that Jefferson was a terrible manager of money and was frequently in debt, but Monticello is an impressive reflection of his innovations and diverse talents and interests. The domed house contains maps, books, scientific instruments, time-saving inventions and items from Lewis and Clark’s journey westward. The grounds include the slave quarters and an 8-acre fruit orchard, as well as 2 vineyards. It was all fascinating, but I think we most enjoyed the gardens. Behind the house, on what is called the West Lawn, is a pathway known as the Winding Flower Walk. Colorful flowers line both sides of the pathway. Jefferson left sketches which have allowed today’s gardeners to accurately portray the garden as it once was. In fact, perennial bulbs, such as tulips, continue to flourish after 115 years. Sweet Williams, Canterbury bells and foxglove were in full bloom when we visited. I have a wonderful photo of Andy standing next to a bronze statue of Jefferson in which they appear to be engaged in serious conversation. The two are the same height, about 6 feet tall.
We had a delicious lunch at nearly Pippin Hills Farm and Vineyards – sandwiches, salads with fresh-from-the garden vegetables, and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc wine. We strolled around the gardens after lunch and visited the chickens in their henhouse, laughing at the antics of the baby chicks. We walked by the honeybees quickly so as not to get them riled up.
The University of Virginia campus is beautiful and historic, founded in 1825 with Thomas Jefferson as its architect. There is a plaque in front of a dormitory noting that Edgar Allen Poe lived there while attending one term at UVA. He also was among the students who attended dinner at Monticello shortly before Jefferson’s death in 1826. A graduation ceremony was being held on the campus lawn as we walked around the campus, so we were able to observe happy students and relieved parents on this special day.
Montpelier, located not far from Charlottesville, was the lifelong home of James Madison, fourth president of the United States, Father of the Constitution, and architect of the Bill of Rights, Madison and his wife Dolley, America’s “first” first lady, are buried in the family cemetery. Our tour guide was exceptional, with voluminous historic and anecdotal information about Madison and the plantation itself. Montpelier consists of 2,650 acres and ongoing archeological excavations continue to uncover details of plantation life. The grounds include a formal garden, recreated slave dwellings, a Civil War encampment site, and 8 miles of walking trails through old-growth forests and meadows. I only wish we had had more time to explore some of those walking trails.
Driving west from Montpelier Station, we entered the Blue Ridge Parkway and stopped at Bald Mountain Overlook for photos. There were dogwood trees and endless green hills from this vista. The parkway is a 469-mile scenic road, free of billboards and tailor-made for leisurely drives since the speed limit is 45 miles per hour. We only drove a small portion of the parkway on this day, but the wildflowers and scenery along the way were exceptional. We left the parkway heading west to Lexington where we had lunch and yummy ice cream at a Gelateria called Pronto. Lexington is home to the Virginia Military Institute, which was the nation’s first state-supported military college, founded in 1839. We took a walk around the campus which has a very institutional feel.
Driving east toward Roanoke, we got a little lost but were determined to find Natural Bridge State Park. We finally located it and it was worth the effort. The 215-foot-tall natural bridge is a limestone gorge carved out by Cedar Creek. To get to the bridge, we walked down a lengthy set of stairs, arriving at a kiosk where we handed in tickets which we had bought at the Visitor Center. We asked how long a walk it was from there to the bridge itself, and the ranger told us to,” Just walk around the bend.” Collectively we said “Wow!” The scale of it – 200 feet high with a span of 90 feet – was thrilling to see. We continued walking along the creek, under the bridge, and to a sacred site of a Native American Monacan tribe. We learned that Thomas Jefferson purchased 157 acres of land, including the Natural Bridge, from King George III for 20 shillings in 1774. He called it “the most sublime of nature’s works.” He built a 2-room log cabin there, and while president, in 1802, he personally surveyed the area. Many famous guests stayed there and at that time, it was one of the wonders of the New World visited by European tourists during the 18th and 19th centuries. It was sold from Jefferson’s estate in 1833, once again to help pay off his debts.
At dusk, we began driving east again to Roanoke where we stayed at the fabulous and historic Hotel Roanoke. It was built in 1882 and features Tudor style elegance on hillside grounds with a grand lobby. We had a 2-bedroom suite, and we were very sad to leave. We took a bus tour of Roanoke the next morning, learning that it is the commercial and medical center of western Virginia. We visited majestic St. Andrew’s Catholic church and said a prayer before heading east again, towards Richmond. We stopped at Appomattox Court House, the site of the last shots fired by the Confederacy at the end of the Civil War. On April 9, 1865, General Lee’s weakened and outnumbered Confederate Army of northern Virginia was cut off by General Grant. The two commanders met in the parlor of the McLean House, and the army of northern Virginia was surrendered to Grant. A village of 27 structures has been restored to its 1865 appearance, including the outhouse behind the McLean House.
In Richmond, we celebrated Marnie’s birthday at an outdoor restaurant which fortunately served especially elegant desserts. The next day as we walked around the downtown area, we noticed colorful murals painted on many of the buildings. I especially liked the one of an angry looking Velveeta Rabbit holding a block of cheese, although I have no idea what that was supposed to mean.
We were not able to visit the capitol in Richmond as it was closed for renovations. Instead, we went to Maymont, a 100-acre property that was formerly a country estate. Originally purchased in 1886 by James and Sally Dooley, the mansion, which was not completed until 1893, typified Gilded Age opulence. The elegant, manicured grounds feature several specialty gardens. The Italian Garden showcases fountains, sculptures and a pergola while the Japanese Garden is accented by a 40-foot waterfall, stone lanterns, paths and bridges. Maymont also includes wildlife exhibits where we saw a bobcat, owls, and various other birds of prey. There was a habitat for a bear, but he remained out of site on this day.
We had lunch in the Carytown District of Richmond at The Broken Tulip. We ate outside and the food was exceptionally gourmet, cooked by the husband of the woman who waited our table. We promised to tell everyone about this restaurant if they go to Richmond. As we strolled around this district, we enjoyed seeing the vibrant colors of the houses and more kitschy and interesting murals.
A few weeks before we went to Richmond, there had been demonstrations and vandalism of the statues that celebrated Confederate generals and politicians. This was in response to the Black Lives Matter movement. As we drove down tree-shaded Monument Blvd., located in the heart of the historic Fan District, we admired the architecturally noteworthy homes while observing the intersections that previously had contained statues of well-known Confederates. All but one of them had been completely removed, except for the huge statue of Robert E. Lee. It had been vandalized and defaced and was surrounded by chain-link fencing to prevent further destruction.
A highlight of our visit to Richmond was the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. We loved the art deco displays of furniture and decorative arts, the Tiffany lamps, and a portrait of a woman painted by Amy Sherald who also painted the official portrait of Michelle Obama. In a separate building was the replica of a chapel which housed stained-glass windows featuring scenes from the Civil War, including the Confederate flag, cannons, and the names of Confederate officers. Outside the museum was a sculpture garden and elaborate fountain.
It was time to head to Williamsburg to join other family members where we stayed in two adjacent condominiums. Kieran had flown in from California, and Terry picked up Quinn at Elon University in North Carolina. It was so great to see everyone. The next day, we all went to the Virginia Aquarium and Marine Science Center in Virginia Beach, where we saw a Komodo dragon, all kinds of colorful tropical fish and 3 types of sharks. From there we drove to the Virginia Beach Boardwalk where we walked around enjoying the warm sunny afternoon, ending up in a pub where we had a couple of beers. I love the photo of my 3 grown-up grandsons, sitting together and joking around. We had dinner that night at a Mexican restaurant.
Owen’s graduation was the next day, outdoors in the stadium. It was very hot, in the 90s, but Andy found us seats in the shade, thank goodness. We were so proud when we heard Owen’s name called and he walked across the field. That night, we went to his house where he and some of his fellow singers from the a capella group known as The Gentlemen performed for us. It is the second oldest university a capella group in the country and Owen had been the music director during his junior year. Even though the concert was spontaneous, they were excellent!
Most of the family left to return to New Jersey, but Andy, Owen and I stayed for another night. The next day we took the ferry across the James River to Surry where we visited Bacon’s Castle, built in 1665, where Bacon’s Rebellion took place. From there we drove to Smithfield, of Smithfield ham fame. One of Virginia’s best preserved colonial seaports, Smithfield also has many beautifully preserved Victorian homes situated on Pagan River, on the south side of the James River. We enjoyed ice cream cones as we walked around the charming downtown area. We marveled at the sunset as we took the ferry back to Williamsburg. What a delightful day and how nice to enjoy it with our grandson.
Andy and I then headed north on our own to Alexandria, an integral part of Washington, D.C., yet a distinct city in its own right. It was established in 1749 by a group of Scottish merchants and we loved learning that bit of history since we are both of Scottish heritage. We stayed in The Alexandrian, located in Old Town just across the street from City Hall. We had dinner that night with Tracy Silberman, an old friend who used to live in San Francisco, and her partner, Laura. We had not seen each other in five years, but it quickly felt just like old times, and we shared many laughs along with the excellent cuisine and wine.
We spent the following day, our only full day in Alexandria, walking around Old Town, the major historic area, and along the Potomac River. It was obvious to us that great effort had been expended to retain the appearance of another century in Old Town Alexandria. We walked along Cameron Mews (mews being another word for alley or back street), a Colonial town house development which exemplifies the approach to new housing in Old Town. We walked by several historic homes surrounded by lovely gardens, such as the Carlyle House. This Georgian Palladian manor was built by John Carlyle, a Scottish merchant and city founder, from 1751 to 1753. Also of interest was Gadsby’s Tavern, circa 1785, which prospered because of its location along the main stage route between Williamsburg and Boston. We passed by a reconstructed house where George Washington stayed when bad weather or business prevented him from returning to his Mount Vernon estate. This, like many other historic homes in Old Town, is now a private residence. The boyhood home of General Robert E. Lee is nearby, also a private residence. We tried to picture ourselves living in one of these homes with such fascinating history.
Christ Church and its peaceful grounds occupy a corner within Old Town. It is a Georgian-style brick church, with a Palladian window, a large three-section window with an arched center that is larger than the two side windows, which was unusual for a structure built in 1763. George Washington regularly attended services here and purchased Pew 60 for 36 pounds and 10 shillings when the church first opened. Of equal interest was the Old Presbyterian Meeting House, which was established in 1772. During the Revolutionary War it served as a gathering place for patriots and was described by one Loyalist as a place for “rebellious scoundrels.” When Washington died, Alexandrians mourned his passing with four memorial services. The Meeting House itself is a classic example of Reformed Protestant plain-style architecture. Located in the center of the churchyard is a burial ground, active from 1760 to 1809, which contains the gravesites of more than 300 persons. An unidentified soldier lies in the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier of the American Revolution.
Having absorbed all this history, we spent the afternoon walking up and down King Street, enjoying the many interesting boutiques, crafts stores and art galleries. We also had ice cream as it was a warm and humid day. Well, we probably would have had ice cream even if the weather wasn’t so warm. We decided that if we moved to Virginia, we would live in Alexandria and try to find a house in Old Town, one of the most charming historic areas in our state travels.
