Colorado - Centennial State
We started and ended this trip in Denver, the Mile High City. There is so much to see in this beautiful state, we had difficulty deciding where to go. Fortunately, our good friend Dick Maynard and my sister, Christine Hall, helped us plan a magnificent loop in the fall of 2001.
Leaving Denver, we drove south to Manitou Springs stopping at the Garden of the Gods along the way, a geological marvel with fantastic red rock formations. The next morning, we headed up to Pike’s Peak, never having been at that altitude before – 14,100 feet! The drive up starts at 7,600 feet and for every 1000 feet rise in elevation, the average temperature drops three degrees. Winds buffet the top of the peak, and the frost-free season is reduced to 1-1/2 months. We learned at the Summit that we had gone through four different Life Zones – Foothills, Montane, Subalpine and Alpine. Each zone has different plants and animals. While it was only nineteen miles to the top, we experienced some of the most breathtaking scenery in this country: viewing three alpine reservoirs, rising above the timberline, overtaking the clouds and, finally, Pikes Peak or Bust, we were there! I’ll never forget getting out of the car to walk across the parking lot and enter Summit House. I felt dizzy and breathless due to the reduced amount of oxygen, a condition we learned is called hypoxia. And it was cold! 22 degrees and windy. Inside we enjoyed a cup of hot chocolate and explored the exhibits before heading back down. It was an unforgettable experience.
Our next stop was Ouray, which was completely unfamiliar before this trip. We stayed at Box Canyon Lodge where we were able to soak in a hot springs bath after dinner. The sulfur smell was strong but sitting there in the mountainous setting with the moonlight overhead was very pleasant. We hiked to Box Canyon Falls the next day, where we first witnessed the falls from inside the canyon. We then climbed a series of stairs and followed a short trail to a bridge far above the canyon, where the view was even more spectacular.
Leaving Ouray, which definitely lived up to our expectations, we headed further south on the Million Dollar Highway. It was given this name because it cost a million dollars a mile when it was built, in the late 1880’s. The “Wow Factor” on this highway is a 10 out of 10 and it is surely one of the most scenic drives in the US. The route between Silverton and Ouray is about 25 miles long and is part of the San Juan Skyway. The road climbs up to three very high mountain passes: Coal Bank, Molas and Red Mountain Passes, all more than 10,000 feet.
When we arrived that evening in Durango, we checked into the Strater, an old Victorian Hotel and seemingly a throwback to the turn of the century. We were informed at the front desk that our room had been upgraded, even though we had not requested it. When the bellman took us to our room and we opened the large double doors, we discovered that we were in the Presidential Suite. Andy said, “I wonder why they gave us this room,” and the bellman commented, “I wondered about that, too.” I guess we didn’t look very presidential after our morning hike and afternoon adventurous drive. We learned that President Gerald Ford stayed there twice, and John F. Kennedy did too when he was a presidential candidate. Many other famous people had stayed there as well, including members of the Grateful Dead!
One of the highlights of our Colorado trip was taking the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad the following day. When we were driving on the Million Dollar Highway, we were above the canyon. This 45-mile ride along the Animas River is down in the canyon where the views are equally as spectacular but completely different. The train crossed the river five times and I loved standing outside on the back of the train to take photos even though it was quite cold. Silverton is a charming town with elaborate Victorian-era architecture. We stayed for a short time before taking the return trip back to Durango. What can I say? This was just so much fun!
From Durango, we drove to Mesa Verde, in the southwest corner of Colorado, known as the Four Corners region (Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah) where we visited the cliff dwellings of the Anasazi people. We learned that about 1400 years ago, a group of people living in this region chose Mesa Verde for their home. For more than 700 years, their descendants lived and flourished there, building elaborate stone communities in the sheltered alcoves of the canyon walls. Then in the late 1200s, for unknown reasons, they left their homes and moved away. We hiked to where we could see one of the cliff dwellings on the Petroglyph Point Trail. We were amazed at how well preserved these ruins are, which were excavated in the late 19th century. We only had half a day to explore Mesa Verde, but we wished we had allotted more time to see this UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Park.
Our next stop was Telluride, which I knew of only as a ski resort. We loved Telluride even in autumn when there was no snow on the ground. What I remember most about Telluride, however, is where we ate dinner that night – Rustico Ristorante – which served perhaps the best Italian food I have ever eaten anywhere, including Italy. It was an unexpected delight.
As we started our return trip to Denver, we went a little out of our way to go over McClure Pass (Elevation 8,755 feet). We thought that perhaps it was named after one of Andy’s ancestors, but according to Wikipedia, it was named after Thomas “Mack” McClure who owned a large house at the eastern base of the pass. The house served as a stage stop where McClure fed and lodged travelers. So as far as we know he was not a relative, but Andy took this photo of me with mountains and aspen trees in the background.
The last stop before returning home was Glenwood Springs. We stayed at the lodge where, at that time, the world’s largest outdoor hot springs swimming pool was located. It is two blocks long and they keep the temperature at 90 degrees. After several very chilly days in Colorado’s autumn high altitude weather, it felt so good to swim in this hot springs pool. It was a great way to cap off our very awesome visit to the magnificent state of Colorado.
